Bless This Tress: Confessions of a Hairdresser: Behind the Chair Q&A

Bless This Tress: Confessions of a Hairdresser: Behind the Chair Q&A

Behind the Chair Q&A

Throughout my career I get asked a lot of questions, some more than others. I've complied a list of the most popular ones in hopes that you will feel more informed by the end of this article.

Q: What's a cosmetologist?
 A:The field of cosmetology has to do with anything related to the hair, skin or nails. 

Q:How long does it take to become a hairdresser?
A:Each state has different guidelines but in the state of Kentucky it takes at least 18 months to complete the cosmetology program. I signed up for 30hrs but some days I did 40hrs and I was able to graduate sooner.

Q:Do you have to take more classes?
A:6 continued education hours are required every year. Hairdressers can either read material from the Kentucky State Board of Hairdressers & take a quiz online or attend an actual hands-on class.


Q:How do you get paid?
A: Salons vary when it comes to income.

• Booth rental salons require employees to pay rent weekly, including supplies and tools, some place may supply you with a color and product line, tools and other amenities. They may also offer commission for *apprentice stylists. Booth renters and salon owners determine their own pay by their price list, the hours they work and the amount they work. Without a steady client base, networking and marketing, being self-employed can really be a roller coaster if the economy is struggling or if  you are out of the hair industry for a time.

• Chain salons such as Super Cuts or Great Clips offers commission and/or hourly pay. Commission  may increase based on the amount  of hair that is cut hourly.

*An apprentice is a student who recently tested & passed their state board exam and have their license. They must complete a six month apprenticeship and return to Frankfort and complete their exam to become a master stylist.

Q:Why do we need to tip the hairdressers?
A:

1. You should always tip for a service of any kind.
2. Some would consider their services priceless so when business owners set their price list, their asking themselves, "How much do I want to make per hour?" "How much do I need to run my business & make a profit?" There may be times of little to no income, just starting out. When you tip, you're helping a small business owner succeed and expand.
3. In commission salons, employees starting out may only receive 30 - 40% percent of the services they've done. Could you imagine working your butt off and after commission and taxes, receive half or less than half. Those tips have gotten me through some rough times.

Q:Well how much do I tip? How much is a good tip?
A:When you know you're going to a salon, plan it in your budget, along with the tip and money for product. When hairdressers don't receive anything it's a smack in the face. Never sit in the chair with the mindset of  "I'm doing you a favor by giving you my business.", instead, depending on where you go, have the mindset of  "I'm going to a professional who is going to educate me on my hair, provide a service and with product." A good hair dressers is an investment. Here's a How-To Video on Salon Tipping...

 For this last segment of Q&A I decided to do something a little different. Here are real life questions that I was personally asked or witnessed being asked. This is called: Things You Don't Say to a Hairdresser!

Q":Can't you just put it in the microwave?" (talking about relaxer)
A:Because it's a chemical. It could explode or cause a toxic chemical reaction. (I'm sorry relaxer is cold.)


Q:"Why pay you $30 every week for something I can do at home?"
A:(calmly I replied) So did you want your hair done or not? I am a certified cosmetologist. We have to be licensed and receive additional training for a reason, which brings me to my next question...

My actual textbook.

Q:"You have a text book? I thought ya'll just did each other's hair."

A:(Annoyed I still answered.)"It's a school, there's a lot of chemistry and science involved."


Q:"They taught you that? I didn't know they taught you that.?" (referring to resumes.)
A:We had a whole course on business management, including how to write a resumes.


Q:What's in the backroom? What do you do back there? What takes so long?
A:I'm about to reveal a secret about the back room area...
The back room is the panic room! When we're not back there mixing and formulating color, we're freaking out. If a client is rude, has unusual quirks about them, annoys you, has a 'complicated order' or very demanding...whoo...that room is a lifesaver. The other reason we're back there so long is because a client wants to be the shade of brunette you showed her in the book and 'oh no!', we don't have that color. Mad-scientist-crazy-chemist-ninja-magic is going on and yet I always manage to pull it off.






Q:"But why does it cost that much? I can go to Walmart and get a box of relaxer for $6."

A "kiddie perm" (children's relaxer), is the same as relaxers for adults

A:(*long sigh*)  "The chemical in the boxes are not professional, I am a professional. You're paying for a service." Not only was she wanting a relaxer on chemically damaged hair that she had chopped herself but for her six year old sister to get one too.

"Box color" may contain clothes dye.

Q:If I bring my own stuff (e.g. color, shampoo, relaxer), how much would you charge me?
A:You can't come into a salon with store bought products and ask a professional to perform a service. Say I went to a doctor and said hey, if I bring my own surgical implements, would you cut the price on my knee surgery? Many box colors, relaxers and perm kits have very high concentrations of it's active ingredient which could ruin the integrity of your hair.

I'll leave you with additional advice for your hair journey...

1. Find a professional. Remember, we continually educate and train for this.
2. Build a strong relationship by being consistent and appreciative.
3. Don't be afraid to ask questions. Being the curious client keeps us on our toes.
4. Refer people to your hairdresser, this can lead to awesome discounts for you.

Informing my clients is my number one objective. When they leave they should feel loved, relaxed & educated, oh and don't forget...look beautiful and still have money in their wallet.

The Truth About Pantene: Store Brand vs Salon Brand

Even before a customer gets in my chair, if they pick up a product, I ask them, "What kind of shampoo do you use"? The most common response is Pantene. "Is that bad?", they ask with uncertainty, clinging to the hope that it might be the correct answer. My response, "Pantene is the devil", I learned that philosophy day one of hair school and held on to it since. It's like when you were little and your granny smacked your hand and said 'Stop.', but she didn't tell you why but you just knew not to do it, this is how I have programmed my clients when it comes to this product. But what makes Pantene so bad? 

I took it upon myself, as a professional to do some research by visiting http://www.pantene.com/en-US/pages/index.aspx, clicked on a various products and skimmed through the ingredients. After much study, I honed in on 

Pantene's Restore Beautiful Lengths

 

Breakage Defense Conditioner 

Out of the 17 items I researched, only 5 of them are directly derived from nature and are safe for you. In this case the bad, outweighed the good. One thing consumers need to know is that when you cleanse and condition your hair, you're also treating your scalp. Your hair originates in liquid form, beneath the epidermis. Supplying your scalp with essential oils and organic ingredients is crucial in producing strong, new hair at this point. Envision a seedling in a pot; that seed needs water, sun and nutrients. If you place plastic wrap over top of that pot, it creates a barrier, blocking that seed from the nourishment it needs to grow and be healthy.


 






The same is true when you use a conditioner like Breakage Defense that contains stearyl alcohol, which is used as a water preserver in pools, it creates a barrier on the hair shaft that water can not penetrate. All alcohol such as benzyl, which comes from flowers, is not bad for you, depending on it's usage. This alcohol is commonly used in inks, paints and lacquers, not conditioner, think of it as a stain on your hair. 

Ready for a tounge twister? Say methylchloroisothiazolinone five times fast. Many consumers won't use what they can't pronounce. This enigmatic word can be found in detergents, glue production, paints, and is used as a anti fungal/antibacterial agent. In pure concentrations, it can be a skin and membrane irritant or cause chemical burns. Don't shoot the messenger, just presenting some of the facts.

If I were to list every item in detail you would think you're in Chemistry 101 so for all of my A.D.D readers, namely me, I picked the most alarming ingredients. The last one I want to bring to your attention nearly made my eyes fall out of my sockets and my mandible crumble. When the words sodium hydroxide appeared before my eyes, my first thought was relaxer. 

Design Essentials is a professional relaxer and is not available to the general public.

                                                 
Sodium hydroxide, also known as lye and a caustic soda is the active base in relaxers. Relaxer is a chemical straightener used mainly on kinky, course hair textures by breaking down the disulfide bonds in the hair shaft. This chemical is hygroscopic, meaning at it has the ability to attract and hold water molecules. Detergents, drain cleaner and the manufacture of paper also involve sodium hydroxide. 


Each item used to create Breakage Defense Conditioner, excluding perfume and color, whether it was chemically engineered or derived from nature either stains or coats the hair in multiple layers that can not be easily penetrated with water or gentle cleansers. The next time you're in the market for a decent shampoo or conditioner, you should do the following:

1)Listen to your haircare professional. I hate to say it but if you question the knowledge of your hairdresser, here's a test: Pick up a shampoo and ask "Is this good for my hair?" If at any time during the conversation they don't turn to the back of the bottle and read the ingredients and reinforce the product's claim on the front,  they may not know what they're talking about.


2)Buyer Beware. All salon products may not be good for your hair and all store brands may not be bad. Huh? A cosmetologist is suggesting store brand? Hear me out before you alert the media. When your funds are low or there is an emergency and you can't get to the salon, unless you have a hairdresser like me who has product on hand at their house, you need to know what to use. Again, consult a professional. Store brands like Suave, Dove, V05, Dark & Lovely are on my list with Pantene, just to name a few. A professional product I wouldn't recommend is Tigi, most of their styling products are loaded with alcohols and polymers which coat and dry out the hair and their shampoos and conditioners are basic and comparable to store brand.


3)If you purchase professional products like Paul Mitchell, Redken or Sexy Hair from a pharmacy, craig's list, a low end hair store, or a flea market, chances are it's either not authentic or it was bought in bulk and altered. There is a black market for salon tools and products, don't not patronize these vendors.


4)Salon products: "It's too expensive!"
    Store brand: "It was only a dollar!" 
You get what you pay for... The Christmas season is the perfect time to find box sets and liters on sale. Buy your shampoo and conditioner in bulk, it last longer and it's more affordable. Trade Secret in Jefferson Mall will price match and I just so happen to work there. wink, wink!

Remember, a store clerk can tell you where it is and how much it cost but they can't tell you what's good for your hair.